Jewelry Value Guide 2026

Gold Karat Explained

Karat (K or kt) measures gold purity, with 24K being pure gold. Higher karat means more gold content and higher intrinsic value, but also softer metal:

• 24K (99.9% gold) - Pure gold, too soft for most jewelry, common in investment pieces and some Asian jewelry
• 22K (91.7% gold) - Very high purity, popular in Indian and Middle Eastern jewelry
• 18K (75% gold) - The standard for fine jewelry, good balance of purity and durability
• 14K (58.3% gold) - Most common in American jewelry, durable and affordable
• 10K (41.7% gold) - Minimum karat to be legally called "gold" in the U.S.
• 9K (37.5% gold) - Common in British and Australian jewelry

Silver

Sterling silver is 92.5% pure silver (marked "925" or "Sterling"). Fine silver is 99.9% pure but too soft for most jewelry. Silver is worth far less per ounce than gold, so the metal value in silver jewelry is usually modest. The value in silver jewelry comes primarily from craftsmanship, design, brand, and age. Antique sterling by makers like Georg Jensen, Tiffany, or Mexican silver masters like William Spratling commands strong collector premiums.

Platinum

Platinum is denser, rarer, and typically more expensive per ounce than gold. It's marked "950 Plat" or "Pt950" (95% purity). Platinum was widely used in fine jewelry during the Edwardian era (1901-1915) and Art Deco period (1920-1940). Its strength allowed for delicate, lace-like settings impossible with gold. Vintage platinum pieces are highly valued both for their metal content and their craftsmanship.

Carat Weight

Carat (ct) measures gemstone weight, not size. One carat equals 0.2 grams. Price per carat increases exponentially with size because larger stones are rarer. A 2-carat diamond doesn't cost twice as much as a 1-carat stone of the same quality — it can cost 3-4 times as much. Common price jumps occur at "magic sizes": 0.50ct, 0.75ct, 1.00ct, 1.50ct, and 2.00ct.

Cut

Cut refers to how well a diamond's facets interact with light. GIA grades round brilliant diamonds from Excellent to Poor. Cut is considered the most important factor in a diamond's beauty — a well-cut diamond with lower color and clarity can look better than a poorly cut stone with higher grades. The most popular cuts are round brilliant, princess, cushion, oval, emerald, pear, and marquise.

Color

Diamond color is graded D (colorless) through Z (light yellow or brown). The differences between adjacent grades are subtle but affect price significantly. D-F is colorless and commands the highest prices. G-J is near-colorless and offers the best value for most buyers. Fancy color diamonds (vivid yellows, pinks, blues) are graded on a separate scale and can be extremely valuable — a vivid blue diamond can sell for millions per carat.

Clarity

Clarity measures the presence of inclusions (internal) and blemishes (external). The GIA scale runs from FL (Flawless) through I3 (heavily included). Most diamonds fall in the VS (Very Slightly Included) to SI (Slightly Included) range. VS2 and SI1 are popular choices because inclusions are invisible to the naked eye, offering good value.

Colored Gemstones

Rubies, sapphires, and emeralds — the "Big Three" — are valued primarily by color intensity, clarity, origin, and treatment status. A fine Burmese ruby or Kashmir sapphire can exceed diamond prices per carat. Origin matters significantly: Colombian emeralds, Burmese rubies, and Ceylon (Sri Lanka) sapphires command premiums. Untreated stones are worth more than heated or treated examples. Lab-grown gemstones look identical but are worth a fraction of natural stones.

Common Gold Stamps

• 750 - 18K gold (75% pure)
• 585 - 14K gold (58.5% pure)
• 417 - 10K gold (41.7% pure)
• 375 - 9K gold (37.5% pure)
• GF or 1/20 - Gold-filled (thick gold layer over base metal, worth some gold value)
• GP or GEP - Gold plated or gold electroplated (minimal gold content, little metal value)

Silver & Platinum Stamps

• 925 - Sterling silver (92.5% pure)
• 800 - European silver (80% pure)
• 950 Plat or Pt950 - Platinum (95% pure)
• IRID PLAT or 10% IRID - Platinum-iridium alloy (common in vintage pieces)

Maker's Marks & Country Marks

Many countries require assay marks that guarantee metal purity. British hallmarks are the most comprehensive, including maker's mark, assay office, date letter, and purity. French marks use an eagle head for 18K gold and an owl for imported gold. Italian marks include a star and province number. Recognizing these marks helps authenticate and date jewelry, which directly impacts value.

Major Gemological Labs

• GIA (Gemological Institute of America) - The most recognized and trusted lab worldwide. GIA-certified diamonds consistently command higher prices.
• AGS (American Gem Society) - Known for rigorous cut grading, particularly for round brilliants
• IGI (International Gemological Institute) - Widely used, especially for lab-grown diamonds
• EGL (European Gemological Laboratory) - Generally considered less strict than GIA; EGL-graded diamonds often sell for less

Why Certification Matters

A GIA report can add 10-20% or more to a diamond's value compared to an uncertified stone with identical characteristics. The report provides buyer confidence, facilitates comparison shopping, and is essential for insurance. For diamonds over 0.50 carats, a GIA report is strongly recommended. For colored gemstones, look for reports from GIA, Gubelin, or SSEF, which also assess origin and treatment status.

Jewelry Periods

• Georgian (1714-1837) - Handcrafted, often using rose-cut diamonds, foil-backed stones, and closed-back settings. Extremely rare and valuable.
• Victorian (1837-1901) - Sentimental motifs (hearts, snakes, flowers), mourning jewelry, cameos. Three sub-periods: Romantic, Grand, and Aesthetic.
• Edwardian (1901-1915) - Delicate platinum filigree, garland style, diamonds and pearls. Known as the "White Period" for its predominantly white metal and white stones.
• Art Deco (1920-1940) - Geometric designs, bold color contrasts, calibre-cut gemstones. Among the most collectible and wearable vintage styles.
• Retro (1940-1950) - Bold, oversized designs using rose and yellow gold (platinum was reserved for war use). Cocktail rings and statement brooches.

Valuing Vintage Jewelry

Never value vintage jewelry solely on its metal and gemstone content — this "scrap value" is almost always the lowest possible price. The craftsmanship, design, period, and maker can multiply the value many times over. An Art Deco platinum diamond bracelet might have $5,000 in materials but sell for $50,000 as a period piece. Always seek appraisal from a specialist in vintage jewelry before selling.

Top Luxury Jewelry Brands

• Cartier - Love bracelets, Tank watches, Panthere collection. Strong resale value, typically 50-80% of retail. Vintage Cartier can appreciate.
• Tiffany & Co. - The blue box is iconic. Engagement rings, Return to Tiffany, and Elsa Peretti collections hold value well. Under LVMH ownership since 2021.
• Van Cleef & Arpels - Alhambra collection, Mystery Set pieces. Exceptional resale market, often achieving 70-100% or more of original retail.
• Bulgari - Serpenti, B.zero1 collections. Bold Italian design. Vintage Bulgari from the 1960s-1980s is especially collectible.
• Harry Winston - Known as "King of Diamonds." Exceptional gemstones and timeless design. Strong resale values for significant pieces.

Authentication

Designer jewelry is frequently counterfeited. Look for proper hallmarks, serial numbers, and signatures. Cartier pieces have serial numbers that can be verified. Tiffany stamps "Tiffany & Co." along with metal purity. When buying pre-owned designer jewelry, request original documentation (box, papers, receipts) and consider authentication services.

Method 2: Professional Appraisal

A certified gemologist (GG from GIA or FGA from Gem-A) can provide a detailed appraisal. For insurance purposes, you need a written appraisal with replacement value. Expect to pay $50-$150 per piece. Always choose an independent appraiser, not one affiliated with the store selling you the jewelry.

Method 3: Auction Comparables

Search past auction results on Christie's, Sotheby's, and Heritage Auctions for similar pieces. This gives you real-world market data for what buyers actually paid. Pay attention to brand, period, condition, and provenance when comparing.

Method 4: Dealer Evaluation

Reputable jewelry dealers and estate buyers will evaluate pieces for free if you're considering selling. Get multiple opinions — offers can vary significantly. Be cautious of "gold buyers" who only consider melt value; your jewelry may be worth far more as a wearable piece.

Auction Houses

Best for high-value pieces ($5,000+), designer jewelry, and antique/vintage items. Christie's, Sotheby's, and Bonhams handle top-tier pieces. Heritage Auctions and specialized jewelry auctions are excellent for mid-range items. Commission rates typically range from 10-20% for sellers.

Estate Jewelry Dealers

Specialized estate jewelry dealers buy pieces for resale. Expect 40-60% of retail value for outright purchase. Some offer consignment at 60-70% of sale price. Choose dealers who specialize in your type of jewelry (vintage, designer, gemstones) for the best price.

Online Platforms

The RealReal, Vestiaire Collective, and 1stDibs are popular for designer and fine jewelry. eBay remains strong for all price levels. Worthy.com specializes in diamond jewelry auctions. Online platforms reach broader audiences but require good photography and accurate descriptions.

Avoid Melt-Only Buyers

"We Buy Gold" shops and pawn shops typically offer only melt value (the weight value of the metal alone), which is usually the lowest possible price. Unless your jewelry is broken, damaged, or has no design value, explore other selling options first. The craftsmanship and design of a piece almost always add value beyond its metal weight.